Ile kosztuje pełne wyposażenie himalaisty?
Minimum to 6 tys. zł, najlepiej 8 tys., a wydać można i 20 tys.

Hmm, bazując na tym co ludzie piszą i pisali o zimowych ośmiotysięcznikach, to ciężko o tym mówić w kategorii "lubienia"

Cause of Death

I wanted to examine the true statistics behind Everest deaths in the past decade and looked to 8000ers.com for some facts. Based on his tables and my updates, the north side fatality rate is higher than the south with falls, altitude issues and exhaustion noted as the primary reasons. However the spread narrowed in 2012 with the deaths of 9 south side climbers. This is the summary from 2001 to 2012:
Reason North Ridge Route South Col Route Other Routes
Fall...................8.................................5..............................1
Altitude.............9.................................6..............................1
Exhaustion........9.................................1..............................1
Unknown...........7.................................2..............................1
Avalanche.........1.................................3..............................2
Crevasse...........0................................4..............................0
Exposure...........4.................................0.............................0
Heart/Stroke......1.................................4.............................0
........................39...............................25............................6

That the north side death rate is higher is not a big surprise. The north is traditionally considered slightly more dangerous given the exposure to cold and harsh winds plus the technical nature of the Steps and exposed rock on the summit ridge.

Due to historical lower costs, more independent climbers use the north thus sometimes finding themselves alone in the event of a problem. Also, it seems that more climbers do not use supplemental oxygen on the north than on the south, probably due to costs, which also can accelerate altitude issues especially in the harshest of conditions.

However, there is no strong correlation between deaths of independent climbers vs climbers on commercial expeditions. Finally, with the exception of 2005 through 2007, the south has had significantly more climbers thus more rescue resources in the event of a problem. Traditionally, commercial operators have focused on the south thus fielding more Sherpas.

As far as nationalities, the Nepalese Sherpas suffer the most with 13 deaths the past 12 years almost all on the south side from falls, avalanches and crevasse accidents. 6 South Korean climbers have died but no other single nationality has more than 4 deaths in the past decade. As far as operators, no one operator stood out since the majority of the non-Sherpa deaths were of climbers on private national climbs, large shared permits or were climbing independently.

Jest dobrze Nasi założyli obóz trzeci ( C3 ) na Nanga Parbat. Pewnie są wyżej niż Amerykanie i reszta..

JOL OD 2GO SIEDZE W TROJCE UDALO MI SIE PRZEBIC. JUTRO SPROBUJE NA 7400 CHOC NA RAZIE PIEKLO JA POD SNIEGIEM TLENU MALO LEB BOLI ALE TO NIE OBRZEK. MALO PIJE.

No właśnie jestem ciekaw jak wysoko siedzi.

Uważam że Mackiewicz powinien teraz przy pierwszej okazji schodzić od razu w dół.

yanas Napisał(a):
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> Dzięki Arturze za te info.
>
> Czy orientujesz się w skali trudności tego
> odcinka od strony flanki Diamir? Do przełączki
> co prawda droga jeszcze bardzo daleka,ale..


Kukuczka z Pronobisem nie dali rady przełoić [trudności techniczne jedną z przyczyn wycofu w 1978](ale próbowali zrobić nowy wariant- przyp.).
To jest od przełączki do szczytu latem na 2 dni plus powrót (razem 3) - tak wyszło Schauerowi i Naarowi.

Artur Hajzer

Lat N 35 Deg 13' 14.629" Lon E 74 Deg 34' 26.622" Alt 6586 m RUSZAM

Lat N 35 Deg 13' 45.327" Lon E 74 Deg 34' 25.540" Alt 7147 m WIATR NA GRANI MAZENO Z 80KM TAKI WP.IERDOL. KIBLUJE DO RANA I ZOBACZE. JOL
Tomek.

tegorocznej międzynarodowej wyprawy która pokonała grań Mazeno

UBIEGŁOROCZNEJ

rebel lukFebruary 7, 2013 at 4:20 AM

Sms od Tomka: NOC SLABA NA ZBOCZU 40' RYLEM PLATFORME POD NAMIOT W SILNYM WIETRZE. ZMARNIALY JESTEM ALE SPROBOJE PCHNAC DO SZCZYTU DZIS BO SLONCE I WIATR SLABY. JUTRO ZEJSCIE

Dobrze rozumiem, to jest atak szczytowy ?

To by była sensacja dekady chyba